Frequently Asked Questions

Yes, we are a licensed and insured electrical contractor. Our team consists of highly trained and experienced electricians who are committed to providing quality services.

Choosing Between a Subpanel and Upgrading Your Electrical Panel

To determine whether to add a subpanel or upgrade your entire electrical panel, start by assessing your current electrical needs. This includes evaluating the existing amp rating of your main panel and identifying potential overload risks from using multiple appliances at once.

Adding a Subpanel

A subpanel can enhance your electrical capacity by:

• Providing additional breaker slots
• Allowing for new circuits in specific areas

However, it might only serve as a temporary fix for an outdated system.

Upgrading Your Electrical Panel

Upgrading your entire panel offers several benefits:

• Enhanced safety with modern circuit interrupters
• Optimized power distribution
• Support for increased power demands and future requirements

This guide delves deeper into these considerations and aids you in selecting the best option for your home.

Assess Your Electrical Needs

When evaluating your electrical needs, begin by determining the amp rating of your main electrical panel. Ensure that your panel has an adequate amp rating, such as 100-amp or 200-amp, to manage current and anticipated electrical loads.

Consider the following:

• Identify any overload risks by checking if using multiple high-energy appliances simultaneously could exceed the existing service capacity.
• Assess the panel’s condition and age to see if it is outdated or overworked, which may warrant a replacement.
• Verify whether the current panel has enough breaker spaces for any additional electrical requirements.

Next, calculate the total power needed for any new installations or increased usage to ensure your system can handle the load effectively. Additionally, making sure your home is well-insulated and free from air leaks can help manage overall energy consumption.

Finally, take into account the electrical requirements for any new rooms or specialized spaces, and plan for future expansions to ensure your system can be easily upgraded.  

Benefits of adding a subpanel

• It adds additional circuit breaker slots when the main panel is full, preventing overcrowding and reducing fire hazards.
• It allows for the expansion of electrical capacity without overhauling the main panel, making it suitable for older homes with limited main panel space.
• It enables the addition of new circuits in specific areas, such as garages or workshops.
• It also alleviates the load on the main breaker to reduce overload risks.

Good reason to upgrade your panel:

Upgrading your entire electrical panel can offer significant advantages over adding a sub-panel, especially regarding overall safety, efficiency, and functionality.

It greatly reduces the risk of electrical fires and other safety hazards by incorporating modern innovations like arc fault circuit interrupters (AFCIs) and ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs).

New panels are more efficient, optimizing power distribution and reducing energy waste, which can lead to lower electrical bills.

They also prevent overloading and short circuits through improved breaker technology and circuit distribution.

Additionally, a whole panel upgrade supports increased power demands, provides more circuit space, and prepares your home for future electrical needs, making it safer, more efficient, and more valuable.

Compare Safety and Efficiency:

Comparing the safety and efficiency of a whole panel upgrade versus adding a subpanel reveals notable differences that can impact your home’s electrical system.

When it comes to safety, a whole panel upgrade is the better option. Modern panels include arc fault circuit interrupters (AFCIs) and ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) that detect and interrupt dangerous electrical arcs and ground faults, significantly reducing the risk of electrical fires and electrical shocks.

Upgrading the panel also guarantees compliance with current electrical codes, which is vital for insurance coverage and property value.

In terms of efficiency, whole panel upgrades manage electricity distribution more effectively, preventing overloading and short circuits. They provide adequate circuit distribution that matches your home’s electrical demand, supporting modern appliances and technological advances.

This contrasts with subpanels, which may not address the underlying issues of outdated electrical systems and may only offer temporary solutions.

Installation and maintenance concerns:

The installation and maintenance aspects are as important as the safety and efficiency factors when considering whether to upgrade your whole panel or add a sub-panel.

For the location, verify the subpanel is easily accessible for maintenance and troubleshooting, and avoid inaccessible or obstructed areas. Choose a spot with enough space and protection from physical damage and the elements.

In terms of capacity and sizing, the subpanel’s main breaker should match the feeder wire’s capacity, and the subpanel’s capacity shouldn’t exceed the main panel’s. Assess the power requirements of the area it will serve and consider future needs.

Confirm proper ventilation and maintain required clearances as specified by local electrical codes. Installation should be done by a licensed electrician to guarantee it’s done safely and to code.

Plan for future expansions and obtain necessary permits to comply with local standards.

• What causes lights to flicker or dim? This may indicate a loose connection, faulty wiring, or an overloaded circuit. If it happens when a specific appliance is turned on, that appliance may be drawing too much power. An electrician can inspect the system to find the cause.
• Why does a circuit breaker trip? Frequent tripping often indicates an overloaded circuit. It means too many high-power devices are plugged into one line. It can also be caused by a short circuit or ground fault.
  • Solution: Try unplugging devices from the circuit. If tripping continues, have a professional inspect the panel and wiring.
• Why is an outlet dead? Before calling an electrician, check if a GFCI outlet has tripped. These are typically found in kitchens, bathrooms, and garages. If the outlet does not have a reset button, check the main breaker panel.
• What does a buzzing sound mean? A buzzing or sizzling sound from an outlet or switch can indicate a loose connection or faulty device. This is a serious fire hazard and requires immediate attention from an electrician.
• Are warm outlets or switches normal? No. A warm or discolored outlet indicates an overloaded circuit, loose wiring, or other dangerous condition. You should stop using it and call an electrician. 

• Why should a licensed electrician be hired? Electrical work can be dangerous, and licensed electricians have the training to perform it safely and according to code. Unlicensed work can pose a fire hazard and may not be covered by homeowner's insurance.
• What information should be gathered before a service call?
  • The problem's location, such as a specific room or appliance.
  • A brief history of the issue (e.g., when it started, what was happening at the time).
  • Pictures or videos of visible issues, like scorch marks.
• How to choose the right electrician:
  • Ask for recommendations from friends, family, or online review platforms.
  • Check credentials to confirm that the electrician is licensed and insured in your state.
  • Get multiple quotes in writing that detail labor, materials, and potential extra fees.
  • Assess their communication and professionalism during initial interactions.
• What to expect during a service call:
  • Initial assessment: The electrician will evaluate the problem and your home's overall electrical system.
  • Load calculation: For major additions like new outlets or EV chargers, the electrician will check if the current panel can handle the load.
  • Transparent pricing: A reputable electrician will provide a clear, written estimate before starting work.
  • Clean-up and testing: After the repair, the electrician will test the system and clean up the work area. 

• What should be done during a power outage? First, check if neighbors also have a power outage, or if it is isolated to your home. During an outage, turn off or unplug major appliances to prevent damage when the power is restored.
• How can a home be made safer?
  • Test GFCI and AFCI devices annually. These protect against electrocution and electrical fires, respectively.
  • Avoid overloading outlets and never run extension cords under rugs or carpets.
  • Install tamper-proof outlets if there are young children.
  • Unplug small appliances when not in use.
• What are the signs of outdated wiring? In homes built before the 1980s, signs of outdated electrical wiring include:
  • Frequent circuit breaker trips.
  • Lights that frequently flicker or dim.
  • A burning smell from outlets or switches.

GFCI and AFCI outlets are critical safety devices required by the National Electrical Code (NEC) to prevent different types of electrical hazards. A Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) primarily protects people from electric shock, while an Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) protects a home from fires caused by arcing wires. 

Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI)A GFCI outlet or breaker detects imbalances in the electrical current that may occur when electricity flows along an unintended path, such as through water or a person. It rapidly cuts power to the circuit to prevent severe electrical shock. 

Where GFCIs are needed (as per NEC): 

• Bathrooms: All receptacles in bathrooms must be GFCI-protected, as moisture and water are common.
• Kitchens: Any outlet serving countertops is required to be GFCI-protected. Some local codes may require GFCI protection for additional kitchen appliances, such as dishwashers.
• Garages: All receptacles in garages must be GFCI-protected due to the potential for damp conditions.
• Outdoors: All exterior outlets must have GFCI protection to guard against rain and moisture.
• Laundry areas: Required for any outlet within 6 feet of a laundry sink.
• Basements and crawl spaces: Outlets in unfinished basements and crawl spaces at or below grade level must be GFCI-protected because of the high moisture risk.
• Wet bar areas: Any outlet within 6 feet of a wet bar sink requires GFCI protection.
• Pools and spas: GFCI protection is required for receptacles within 20 feet of a pool or spa. 

Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI)An AFCI breaker or outlet works by continuously monitoring the electrical current for signs of dangerous arcing. Arcing can be caused by frayed wires, damaged insulation, or loose connections, and the heat it produces can lead to a fire. An AFCI device detects this arcing and instantly cuts power to the circuit. 

Where AFCIs are needed (as per NEC): 

• Bedrooms: All branch circuits supplying outlets and lighting in bedrooms require AFCI protection.
• Living areas: Most habitable spaces, including family rooms, dining rooms, and living rooms, need AFCI protection.
• Kitchens: AFCI protection is now required for outlets and devices in kitchens.
• Hallways and closets: Receptacles in closets and hallways require AFCI protection.
• Laundry areas: AFCI protection is required for laundry area circuits.
• Other common areas: This includes dens, sunrooms, libraries, and recreation rooms. 

Combination AFCI/GFCI protection. As electrical codes have evolved, the need for both types of protection has expanded. For instance, kitchens and laundry rooms require both GFCI and AFCI protection. To meet these dual-protection requirements, electricians can install a single combination AFCI/GFCI breaker in the electrical panel to protect the entire circuit 

  There are several common misconceptions about GFCI and AFCI outlets, often stemming from confusion over their distinct functions and the evolution of electrical code. While GFCIs prevent severe shocks, AFCIs prevent fires; they are not interchangeable and are both required in many homes. 

Misconceptions about GFCI outlets

• Myth: GFCIs require a ground wire to function.
  • Fact: GFCIs protect against ground faults by monitoring the current in the hot and neutral wires. They detect imbalances, and a ground wire is not required for this sensing function. In older, ungrounded circuits, a GFCI can be installed to provide shock protection, though the outlet should be marked as "no equipment ground".
• Myth: GFCIs prevent all electrical shocks.
  • Fact: GFCIs protect against shocks to the ground. They trip in milliseconds to prevent a fatal shock by limiting the duration of the current flow through a person. However, they do not provide protection from a shock that occurs between a hot and a neutral wire, where the current does not flow to the ground.
• Myth: GFCI trips are always "nuisance trips".
  • Fact: A GFCI trip, especially with older appliances, indicates a problem. For example, a refrigerator's defrost cycle can cause a minor electrical leak that trips the GFCI, indicating a fault with the appliance, not the outlet. Modern electrical codes require GFCI protection for all kitchen and basement receptacles, even those used for refrigerators.
• Myth: GFCIs protect connected equipment from surges.
  • Fact: GFCIs are designed to protect people, not electronics. For equipment like computers, a dedicated surge protector is needed to protect against voltage spikes. 

Misconceptions about AFCI outlets

• Myth: AFCIs only protect the specific appliance plugged in.
  • Fact: AFCI breakers protect the entire branch circuit they control. This includes the wiring in the walls, switches, outlets, and any connected equipment.
• Myth: Standard circuit breakers offer the same protection as AFCIs.
  • Fact: Standard breakers only protect against overloads and short circuits. They cannot detect the low-current, erratic arcing that an AFCI is designed to stop. This type of arcing can generate intense heat and start a fire long before a standard breaker would trip.
• Myth: AFCI "nuisance trips" are a sign of a faulty device.
  • Fact: Most AFCI trips are not random but a "safety alert," indicating a real electrical issue. This could be a loose connection in an outlet, damaged wiring, or a fault in a connected device.
• Myth: AFCIs are only required in a few rooms.
  • Fact: The National Electrical Code (NEC) has expanded the requirement for AFCIs beyond bedrooms to cover nearly all habitable areas of the home, including living rooms, dining rooms, kitchens, and hallways. 

Misconceptions about both GFCI and AFCI

• Myth: AFCI and GFCI protection are interchangeable.
  • Fact: They protect against different hazards. AFCIs prevent fires from electrical arcing, while GFCIs prevent shocks from ground faults. Many modern residential circuits in areas like kitchens and laundry rooms are required to have both types of protection.
• Myth: AFCI and GFCI breakers cannot be used on the same circuit.
  • Fact: They work together and can be installed on the same circuit. In fact, combination AFCI/GFCI breakers are available to provide comprehensive protection against both hazards with a single device.
• Myth: Only new construction needs AFCI and GFCI protection.
  • Fact: While required for new construction, these devices can and should be installed in older homes to improve safety. If an older home has electrical work done in a protected area, the new outlets must be brought up to the current code

• What do the different wire colors mean?.In most homes, green or bare wire is the ground wire, white is the neutral wire, and black is the hot (live) wire. 
• When should I call a professional electrician?.Contact an electrician for issues like hot switches, loose or sparking outlets, recurring breaker trips, or any signs of rust on the main electrical panel, as these can be fire hazards. 

• What's the difference between a fuse and a circuit breaker?.A fuse is a one-time-use component that melts to break a circuit during an overload, while a circuit breaker is a reusable switch that flips off and can be reset. 
• How do I reset a circuit breaker?.Locate your breaker box, find any switch that is out of place, and flip it back to the normal position. 

    When an outlet stops working, it usually indicates an issue with the circuit, such as a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse, which can happen from Overloads or Short Circuits. Other causes could be  loose or damaged wiring, a worn-out or burned-out outlet, or simply a faulty device plugged into it. 

For safety, it is best to have a professional electrician handle complex issues like loose or damaged wiring.

 Common Causes:

• Tripped Circuit Breaker: If too much power is drawn on a circuit, the breaker will "trip" to cut off power, preventing damage or fire. Check your electrical panel for any breakers that have flipped to the middle or "off" position. 
• Blown Fuse: In older homes with a Fusebox, a blown fuse can cut power to the outlet. A blown fuse must be replaced with a new one of the same rating. 
• Tripped GFCI Outlet: GFCI outlets are common in bathrooms and kitchens and will cut power if they detect an unsafe ground fault. Look for a "Test" and "Reset" button on nearby GFCI outlets. 
• Loose or Damaged Wiring: Wires inside the outlet box or connections to the circuit breaker can become loose or damaged, which can interrupt the flow of power. 
• Worn-Out or Burned out Outlet: An outlet can become worn out over time, making poor connections. It can also burn out due to overloading, which creates excessive heat. 
• Faulty Device: The issue may not be with the outlet at all, but with the electrical device you're trying to use. 

What to Do:

1. Check for a tripped breaker or GFCI: Head to your electrical panel or the nearest GFCI outlet and check their positions. Reset any tripped breakers or GFCIs. 
2. Test the device: Plug a known-working device into the outlet to see if it powers on. 
3. Call a professional: If the problem persists after these steps, or if you suspect loose or damaged wiring, it is safest to call a professional electrician to diagnose and fix the issue. 

Light bulbs burn out quickly due to factors like high voltage, loose or improper connections in the socket or wiring, incompatible dimmer switches, using bulbs with the wrong wattage for a fixture, overheating from being in an enclosed fixture, or excessive fixture vibration. Checking these common issues and switching to energy-efficient LED Bulbs can often resolve the problem. 

Electrical & Wiring Issues

• High Voltage: A significant increase in voltage can make bulbs hotter and brighter, reducing their lifespan considerably. 
• Loose Connections: Loose wiring or a bulb that isn't screwed in securely can lead to flickering and premature burnout. 
• Faulty Fixtures: An incorrect or faulty bulb socket can cause poor contact, leading to increased resistance and rapid failure. 
• Incompatible Dimmer Switches: Using the wrong type of dimmer switch can cause voltage fluctuations that reduce bulb life. 

Bulb & Fixture Compatibility

• Incorrect Wattage: Using a bulb with a wattage rating higher than the fixture is designed for can cause it to overheat and burn out. 
• Enclosed Fixtures: Bulbs placed in closed fixtures may lack adequate ventilation, leading to overheating and faster burnout. 
• Vibrations: Excessive vibration, such as from a ceiling fan, can shorten bulb life. 

Other Factors 

• Poor Quality Bulbs: Cheap, low-quality bulbs are made with inferior components and will not last as long as higher-quality ones.
• Frequent On/Off Cycles: For some bulb types, frequently turning them on and off can also reduce their lifespan.

How to Fix It

1. Ensure Tight Connections: Make sure your light bulbs are screwed in securely. 
2. Use Correct Wattage: Check the fixture's maximum wattage rating and ensure your bulb does not exceed it. 
3. Consider LED Bulbs: LEDs last significantly longer and are more resistant to fluctuations, flickering, and heat.
4. Upgrade Fixtures: Replace fixtures not approved for high-wattage or enclosed use. 
5. Call an Electrician: If the problem persists or involves multiple fixtures, there may be an underlying electrical issue like high voltage or faulty wiring that needs professional attention.